Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Riding down the river

As the outreach has been winding down, I have began to evaluate the things on my "Sierra Leone Bucket List" that I have yet to do....A few friends had traveled around riding the local boats up the river and had great experiences, so I had made up my mind that I would add that to my list of things to do before I leave the country until I had my own boat adventure.


It was my last night working on the ward and several of my patients were going to be discharged the following day, so I was giving lots of hugs and saying my goodbyes. Then, it dawned on me that Abas, one of our long-term plastics patients who happens to be a fisherman, was heading to his village back up the river the following day. I asked if he would mind bringing me along with him to ride up the river and see his village. "Of course you can come," he responded excitedly. We talked about the details of the trip and made a plan for the following day. I was happy to take the journey with just Abas, but knew it would be more fun to bring some friends along. I told my roommate Mekenzie about my plans for the boat adventure and her face lit up. Kenzie is always up for a good adventure and she has a great appreciation for African culture, so I knew she'd be a great person to have along. I would've been completely satisfied to have just one friend along, but I was pleasantly surprised when my friends Karin and Lindsay asked if they could also join us.

The next day, Abas' son arrived at the ship in the late morning and we all set off for our adventure, not sure what to expect, but certain that it would be a great African adventure. We jumped into a poda-poda and were happily on our way. After about ten minutes, we stopped at the police station. Apparently, the driver of the poda didn't have a license. "That's why we like traveling in boats. We will not have problems with police on the river," Abas muttered with irriation in his voice.

We found a taxi and made our way to the ferry dock. It was much more run down than the dock where we usually take the ferry across to the airport. We passed through the rubble and tried to avoid the calls of the men hanging out on the dock, holding tightly to our belongings as we passed. We paid our fees, took our life jackets (which we were surprised to receive) and found a place among the many passengers that were already inside the boat. We had a fairly comfortable ride sitting on the edge of the boat as we traveled across the water to Lungi, our first stop. When we got to Lungi, we were greeted by several of Abas' family members. Abas and his sister broke out into tears over their joy in being reunited after many months. He made sure that we met his family members and lots of other friends that he had there. We were eager to get on the next boat, as four white girls was attracting a lot of attention. We finally were told that our boat had arrived as Mekenzie was turning down a marriage proposal. Relieved, we started walking towards the boat.

Next thing we knew, we were all being picked up off the ground by the passenger-carrying men. Since there was no dock, these men are hired to carry the passengers to the boats. But, instead of asking if we wanted to be carried across the water, they literally swept us off our feet (though we still weren't agreeing to any marriage proposals!) and carried us to the boat. We managed to find space amidst the people and luggage in the crowded boat and attempted to get comfortable for the ride up the river.

Kenzie being carried to the boat



The ride was long, but beautiful and peaceful. Along the way to Abas' village, we made multiple stops. Sometimes it was to drop off passengers and other times it was to get something to eat. We were all very entertained by the African version of a fast food "drive-in window." They would pull the boat up along the side of the village dock, as a bunch of people rushed out, carrying platters of fish, fried plantains, and other African foods. Passengers would quickly hand their money out the side of the boat in exchange for the African delicacies and a few minutes later we would be back on our way.


Karin & Kenzie in our crowded boat

Lindsay and I on the other side of the boat


It seemed that Abas had a friend in every single village we visited along the way. He would point to the person and wave, then point to us and say "Mercy Ships" and show off his new shoulder with a smile from ear to ear. There were A LOT of stops along the way, but it was really nice seeing other parts of Sierra Leone that I'd never seen before.

Abas was very excited for the trip home



By the time we were nearing the village next to Port Loco where Abas lives, it was dark and the only light that remained was the light coming from a nearby mine. We made it to the village and were taken to Abas' home. He had not told his family that he was coming home, so they were all very surprised and excited to see him! They sat the four of us down on benches and for several long moments, they all just stared at us. Later we learned that most of the children had never seen white people. Instead of pointing and shouting "apoto, apoto" like most of the kids in Sierra Leone tend to do, they just sat and stared at us with wide eyes.

We struggled to communicate with the people, as most of them spoke Temne instead of Krio. Abas was walking around the village with other long-lost friends and we sat there awkwardly, not sure what to do next. Then a woman came along named Kadiatu. She was a pregnant momma, very lively, and our saving grace. She was able to speak Krio and Temne, so we were able to communicate with her quite well. Kadiatu decided to sing a Temne song for us and all the people standing there joined in. Next thing we knew, we were singing a Krio song for them! The songs continued back and forth for about twenty minutes and the awkwardness was broken. The children were smiling and laughing and we were enjoying every minute of it. Music always has a way of bringing people together! That night, the four of us snuggled into one small bed and I said a prayer that the giant spider on the wall wouldn't attack us in the middle of the night! Thankfully, it was gone in the morning and we were all ok!

Kadiatu and myself in the village


The next morning, we were happy to see that the first thing that Abas did was get out his supplemental Promod drink for his wound healing. But, he decided he needed to let his friends try the drink as well....Next thing you know, they were all taking shots of Promod from his medicine cup. TIA. We all got a good laugh at that sight. 

We were given a tour of the village and they showed us how they make palm oil using small boat for the process. One of the women also showed us a plant that they use to treat malaria. It's kind of amazing how much they do with all of the natural resources that God has provided!

Later that morning, our okadas (motorcycle taxis) arrived and we started our journey back to the ship. It was supposed to be a shorter journey by land, but it turned out to be almost 6 hours (nearly as long as the boat ride)...the trip started on some narrow roads winding through tall grass...definitely more exciting than riding through the city! We made it to the open roads and drove through the beautiful countryside. It reminded me a lot of the trips we had taken upcountry in Togo.




At one point, we had to cross the river in a small boat. There weren't enough seats, so they cut down a palm branch and measured out a new seat for Lindsay right there. It was pretty cool to watch how innovative they are here.


Once we got across, we got into a taxi, which broke down about five minutes into the trip. We got out some cards and started playing a game on the side of the road while we waited for the taxi problems to be resolved. Soon enough, we were back on our way and made it into Waterloo. From there, we took a Poda Poda and finally reached the ship after about six hours of traveling! In spite of all the craziness of our travels, I have to say that it was one of my favorite trips of my time in Sierra Leone and I was thankful I could share it with such great friends!

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